Dressmaking with Lex- Part 1
April 9, 2010 8:34 amI’ve gotten a lot of questions and requests to show how I make a dress. So I finally put together my process of dressmaking. I honestly have been nervous to do this. Why? I’m not trained in what I do. I’m a self taught designer/sewer. So the way I do things is the way I like to do them and the way that has worked well for me. So I want to add a disclaimer saying just that. Maybe the way I do things is different, or maybe it’s not, I really don’t know! But none the less, I’ll gladly show you my dressmaking journey.
The first thing I do is come up with a design. You all know how I can’t follow patterns. It’s a problem. They’re like reading a foreign language to me. But I DO recommend them for people who are more “normal” than I am. When I design I don’t sit down and decide to come up with something. It’s an idea that’s already come to me. Most of the time, I work really well if I can go execute the idea immediately. It’s like a pressure that’s added that I function well under. After I think of the idea, I “sketch” it. I say that soooo loosely. I’m a TERRIBLE sketcher.
It’s mostly just a catalog of my creative journey.
Then I mach it on my dress form. You DO NOT need a dress form to make a dress. I started out just laying things on myself, or tracing an existing dress I already had. Does a dress form make things easier? For pattern designing, yes. I have a Uniquely You dress form and I love it. It’s a great form for the money and far superior to the Dritz or Singer’s. Do I still sometimes I hope one of these falls into my lap? Absolutely. But I first started out with a duct tape dress form and I honestly thought it was a great beginning! The tutorial I used is here.
I use tape to decide the pattern pieces I’m going to cut out.
After I figure out how I”m going to lay out the dress, I cut out my fabric to those pieces. I don’t pre-do it muslin. I should, but I don’t.
Then I put those pieces back on my form and pin them in the places I’m going to sew them. NOTE: This is when I make a style dress for the first time. If I like the dress I made and want to make more for sale, I will then create a pattern from muslin so I have a prototype and don’t have to do this process every time.
Then I will first sew my shoulder seams together. I sew it one of two ways, depending on the fabric. First, is with a serger. You could also use an overcast stitch or a zig zag stitch on your sewing machine.
TIP: Look at some garments you have. Study the way they were sewn and put together. I find this a really helpful learning technique.
The second way is with a french seam. I use a french seam on delicate fabrics. I like the serger because it creates a clean edge. That’s why I like a french seam. It looks absolutely clean. I love the way they look!
Here’s how I do a french seam.
Pin your fabric pieces with the insides together (or right sides out).
Sew a 1/4 in. straight edge stitch.
Trim along the edge of the fabric so bit’s left to about 1/8 of an inch.
Open the seam and lay your fabric flat. Iron the seam down.
Now fold it with the insides out. Iron it flat.
Sew it with an approximate 3/8 inch stitch. You don’t want to do it too close or else the fabric from the first seam will come through this seam. When you’re done it will look like this.
That’s how to do a french seam! Aren’t they pretty? They are pretty tricky on anything curvy like armholes or a rounded neckline. So start with straight seams.
After I sew together the shoulders, then most of the times I’ll pin and sew the sides of the dress. ( I know. This just looks like a piece of fabric I laid on here. This dress is a wide neck, boxy style so it looks REALLY ugly before it’s sewn together. The end result’s cute. I promise.)
If I’m doing a certain style sometimes I’ll put the sleeves on, then sew the sleves and sides of the dress in one seam. But most of the time I do the sleeves after.
Enough info for one post! Please let me know how you like this post and give me any questions that I’ll answer in the next post. Next time, I’ll briefly go over darts, how I do different hemlines, different closures and maybe pockets if I’m feeling crazy!!
I hope this wasn’t too boring and that you enjoyed Part one of Dressmaking with Lex!
Tags: dress, dressmaking, french seams, techniques, tutorial
Posted in other, Uncategorized | 25 Comments »
By Adventures in Dressmaking on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
Very cool to read how you do it.
I agree that patterns are lame-o; I usually use the pattern for a rough size and shape of the pieces, but modify it quite a bit to be what I want. Then I fold it all up and put it to the site–I never follow the instructions! Oops. Usually it works out!
I never draw things before I make them, since I’m not as confident in my sketching skills as I am in my mental image. I also use pictures online of things for inspiration.
By Kristi @ Creative Kristi on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
Thank you! I have read/viewed instructions on a French seam before and never quite grasped it! I am a beginning clothing sewer (I can make bags, quilts, curtains, blankets that fold into pillows, etc. but have never attempted clothes) and I love this post! I can follow patterns ok but would love to get some of the ideas out of my head and into fabric form but had no idea how to go about it! I’ll be looking forward to more on this topic!
By Micah-Noel on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
Thanks for sharing about this! I find it very interesting. Looking forward to the next post!
By Morgan on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
So neat to learn the creative process!
By Sarah on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
Oh- thanks for doing this- i love your stuff and im excited to see how you create! thank you thank you thank you!
By Sarah on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
Definitely interesting. Can’t wait to hear more
By Linette on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
Thanks for sharing this. It’s really helpful, as a beginning sewer, to see someone’s process. Also, thanks for recommending the dress form. I’ve been wanting to invest in one and was unsure which way to go. Please continue the tutorial and do go crazy and show us how you put together all those other details!
By Heidi on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
Wow, thanks, I’m totally clueless in this department but I would love to start making some of my own clothing! Please, show us more!
By Jen on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
Oh, this is so awesome! I was just watching Project Runway last night and thinking…I wish I could just watch someone make something a dress form in “real life” so I could see how you do it. I think this is as close as I’m gonna get. Where did you get your form? Am I remembering correctly that you made it??
By Jen on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
Ok, duh. I just went back and reread everything more closely and see where you got your form. I just got so excited when I first saw this that I didn’t read through everything. Now I have. Thanks for doing this. I’m really excited!
By Melissa Wingo on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
I hate patterns too. “A picture is worth a thousand words” really applies to how you show what you do compared to patters. I’m in the process of relearning how to make clothing & I love your posts. I have learned so much & I’m currently refashioning a bunch of shirts into tanks for the summer with a lot of your advise.
I’ll post them on your flicker group.
Thanks Melissa
By Melissa Wingo on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
Oh I do have a question. What is the tape you use? I’ve seen it so many times on Project Runway & wanted to ask & now I can ask you.
Melissa
By kristen Barstad on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
you are so cute!! and so sweet and humble!! your designs are so cute and its so cool to see you working. i am a beginner too and i love learning from others who have taught themselves!
By Donna on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
Lex, I was self-taught then went to classes & learned that there really isn’t a wrong way to do these things as long as it works. And what you’re doing clearly works!
Donna
By Donna on Apr 9, 2010 | Reply
Lex, I was self-taught then went to classes & learned that there really isn’t a wrong way to do these things as long as it works. And what you’re doing clearly works!
So don’t hesitate to share your methods ’cause they’re great, like your designs!
Donna
By katie kortman on Apr 10, 2010 | Reply
i love this series! I can’t wait to see more! Its fun to see how someone elses makes their clothing. I too HATE patterns. I have been trying to use them lately because I never really learned before (always just made things up as I went), and I want to know some more techniques so that my free-styling can be even better! This series of yours should also help! oh and I have always wanted to know how to do the tape thing! How does it goe from being taped onto the form to becoming a pattern piece? I always see it on PR and wonder!!! thanks for all your nice comments on my blog too ps.
By katie kortman on Apr 10, 2010 | Reply
I should say I HATE patterns because the directions are so confusing that it is faster and easier for me to just figure out my own way to do things. the pre-made pieces can be good though. I like to use them to make things like sleeves.
By Leslie on Apr 12, 2010 | Reply
Thanks for the post. I’m just starting to sew clothing, so this couldn’t be more perfect timing to come across this post.
By amy on Apr 12, 2010 | Reply
Thank you I love your blog!!
By Maren on Apr 12, 2010 | Reply
Great information-Would be great to see the dress in pictures from start to finish. Hope you do that in an upcoming post.
By Julie on Apr 13, 2010 | Reply
Hi Lex. I’m new to your blog. It’s fabulous! And what an excellent first post to read! I feel inspired and somehow validated in that I too am self-taught and have never worked with patterns. Now that I am selling some of my pieces I have learned to work with my own patterns, but in the past my habit was to never make the same item twice. Tomorrow I begin a 4-night class on using patterns in garment making. I have been feeling the need to demystify pattern language.
By Suma on Apr 14, 2010 | Reply
Love your blog. thank you very much for being so generous and sharing your knowledge with us.
By Deborah on Sep 11, 2010 | Reply
I always love to hear the creative process of other seamstresses. I am of the VERY old school variety but I also strongly believe in going your own way and doing what works for you. There is no wrong way.
By Lynnette on Nov 4, 2011 | Reply
Wow, this is so cool. I say:
1. Why am I just now finding this post????? My computer freakishly now opened this post. I’ve previously scoured your site, cuz I love it but I’ve never seen this dressmaking before AND now can’t find it why I try. Where is the rest of this series?
2. I agree with another poster: How do you use the tape to help form the pattern?
3. What other great posts are snuggled deep in the bowels of this inspiring blog of yours??
Thanks for the great inside peek at the way you put things together. I have an idea pop and may sketch it but then I want to just cut a shape out and stitch it up, not find a pattern. I need to keep trial and erroring but I wonder if there is an easy way to know the general shapes of things.
You don’t blog enough for me as I am inspired by many things you make BUT what makes me like it all the more is that a lack of blogging probably means you’ve got your priorities straight!
Ok, I’m blabbering now. Thanks lots.
By Geraldine on Mar 19, 2012 | Reply
Can you post the finished dress?